Rome - Pizza, Pasta, Piazzas and Pickpockets!
"As they walked through the tall wide wooden door, the one they rarely open, he felt a chill. It was late December right after Christmas. He was awed by the enormity of the building. The place was overwhelming and yet he felt safe. He marveled at the construction and the beautiful artwork. They explored the massive place for about half an hour and then it happened. Out of nowhere a choir started to sing ‘Silent Night’. Music always moved him but never like this. The volume grew and as he looked around for the source he felt a serenity he had never felt before. He was lost in the moment. Problems, difficulties and negativity were gone. In their place was a quiet sense of calm. The music was beautiful. He looked over and saw that it had the same effect on her. He had worried that when they walked through the door they would be struck by lightning. She was not a believer. He loved her anyway. They enjoyed the moment. As the music ended they smiled at each other. As he looked into her wide beautiful eyes he thought of another time and place. It was a time and place when they had innocence. Things never work out the way you think they will. Even in his largest house, God doesn’t make things that easy." ... Keep Us Warm Against The Cold.
I have been to Italy a bit, for business and pleasure. Because of my food and wine background, I get a lot of request from friends and acquaintances for restaurants and food shops in different cities. I recently got one for Rome which made me recall a trip Sally and I made over the Millennium. We left Florida on Christmas Day and flew the overnight flight from New York to Fiumicino - Leonardo da Vinci, which sits outside Rome on the coast. We arrived in the early morning and took the quick train into town. We arrived at Roma Termini, the transportation hub in central Rome around ten o'clock.
Roma Termini Station 1953
It was a beautiful sunny day so we decided to walk to the Hotel Dorica on the Piazza Viminale, a mere five blocks away. We were a little jet lagged so not as attentive as we normally would be. We also had rolling suitcases which immediately labeled us as tourist. The white athletic shoes made us American tourist. We suspected nothing as a young Gypsy lady approached with a baby in a sling around her neck and a twelve year old boy in tow. The next thing I knew I was being forcefully cajoled into giving them money to feed the baby. I couldn't see the baby because of the sling but the other two looked rather healthy and robust. Then the old light bulb went off in my head and I reached for my money clip that I kept in my pants pocket. We had already secured our passports and major cash in a money pouch under my clothing but I always carry some cash and my credit cards in a money clip. The baby sling provided this young lady a place to hide her hands. One of them had picked my pocket and taken my money clip. In an action born out of anger rather than clever thought I swiped my hand under the baby sling and out popped my money clip. We chased them off yelling "Al Ladro, Al Ladro in my horrible Italian. Yes, I know that means "stop thief" and I certainly didn't want them to stop but like I said my Italian is horrible. Then as I was making sure all my credit cards and cash were intact, I looked across the piazza to see two members of the local Polizia pointing at us and laughing. There is no compassion for stupid American tourist.
We quickly found the
Hotel Dorica. It sits in a piazza opposite the Ministry of Interior's Viminal Palace which is on one of the historical seven hills of Rome. The Dorica is a small family-run affair and is quite delightful. The rooms are comfortable with nice sized bathrooms which are sometimes hard to find in Italy. Our room was on the first floor which in Europe is the second floor overlooking the piazza and the palace. It was quite beautiful and relatively quiet at night. It is also within walking distance of pretty much all the sights tourists want to see. Click the link above for more information and current rates. Piazza Viminale #14 Roma 00184 - Tel.- +39 - 06.483615 or 4818952. Email -
hldorica@tin.it
The Holy Door
Most people when they travel want to avoid the "tourist spots" and if you have already been to these places then by all means find the spots that are off the beaten path. If you haven't been to these "tourist spots" you are missing the whole point of travel. To wander the neighborhood of your hotel round a corner and there in front of you is this gigantic structure that you recognize as the Colosseum is a feeling like no other you will ever experience. To walk in St. Peter's Square and feel its vastness and then see it overflowing with people on New Year's Eve is awe inspiring. To walk through the "Porta Sancta",
Holy Door which is only opened in a Holy Year ("Jubilee" every twenty five years) and marvel at the beauty and massiveness of St. Peter's Basilica and then hear a boy's choir sing a stirring "Silent Night" is an overwhelming emotional experience. It's an experience you will never get from a picture or a video. It makes a physical connection creating a memory that lasts a lifetime. That is the reason to travel and the reason to hit the "tourist spots" at least once.
Campo de Fiori
Another one of these spots is the market at
Campo de Fiori. It is a charming square that indeed was a "field of flowers" at one time. Now it is covered with cobblestones and adorned with interesting old buildings and small palaces. Every morning (until 1:00pm) except for Sunday it is filled with a bustling food market. It has stalls selling the best flowers, fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood and anything else you need for a meal or snack, in all of Rome. Now some may argue that the
Testaccio Market a couple of Metro stops to the south is better but it's indoor and therefore not the same. It has just moved (Spring 2012) into a brand new building so it has a different feel than the Campo de Fiori. They are both great markets.
Forno Campo de Fiori
You can get a nice ripe pear, a chunk of parmagiano reggiano and thin slices of prosciutto crudo to put in your backpack for lunch. What no bread? Never fear because at the far end of the piazza next to La Carbonara is Forno (Oven) Campo de Fiori and they have the best pizza bianca in all of Rome. When we were there they called it "Scrocchirella". Now that they are famous ( Jeffery Steingarten wrote an article about them and Antico Forno Roscioli ) it's called pizza bianca, a lot easier to pronounce. A lot of people argue that the pizza bianca at
Antico Forno Roscioli is better but I like
Forno Campo de Fiori's. It's a six foot long olive oil brushed, sprinkled with sea salt and sometimes rosemary, chewy, moist, airy flatbread that is chopped into portable rectangles by nice ladies with big knives behind a counter that looks like it has been there since before the war. (WWI or WWII?) Two pieces is usually an order but these ladies will cut as much as you want. With this all you need is a bottle of wine or water and you have a feast. We did this for lunch just about every day we were there. Piazza Campo de Fiori # 22, Tel. - +39 - 06.688.06662. Closed Sunday and Saturday afternoon in summer.
Two Slices
One Slice Before Going Into Forno
We got our bearings over the next few days and settled into a routine. We would rise early and enjoy a typical Italian hotel breakfast of fruit, pastry, coffee, breads, sliced meats and cheeses which was included in our room tariff. Then we would walk over to the Campo de Fiori and pick up items for our lunch less the bottle of wine or water, no sense carting that weight around when we can pick up a bottle just before eating and it will be cool or cold as need be. Then we would be off to see the sights.
The one problem we could not solve was the onslaught of the pickpockets. It was like we had signs on our backs saying: "Please take my wallet!" They were everywhere, on the steps of the churches, at the museums and art galleries, alone or in packs on the streets, on the bus, on the street waiting for the bus. Every time I put my hand in my pocket I ended up shaking hands with a "Citizen of Rome". On an earlier trip to Rome I had purchased Sally a small black leather backpack that she used as a purse and carryall. They treated that like it was their own. She stopped wearing it on her back and started wearing in front and that still didn't keep out the prying fingers. There was no typical profile either, although a large portion were gypsies. (I know, I know. I'm a racist for pointing that out but it was true) They ranged from street urchins of 8 or 9 to young girls of 16 or 17 to men in suits with ties, to little old bent over grandmothers. We just couldn't seem to shake them especially on the bus. We mentioned this to the daughter of the owner of our hotel one morning at breakfast. She said, "Yes they are a problem. You should not ride the buses in the historical district. They call the # 64 bus the "Pickpocket Express" and the # 40 the "Pickpocket Buffet". You should use the Metro. It is much safer."
We started using the Metro that same morning. As I stepped onto the very first train I was surrounded by a pack of Artful Dodger wannabes, none older than 10. I reached into the front pockets of my pants and grabbed two small vainly searching hands. I admonished their owners, deposited them on the platform, growled in my aforementioned horrible Italian and sent them on their way. So much for the safety of the Metro. At Sally's insistence, that morning I had placed my money clip in a zippered inner pocket of the light jacket I was wearing. I love smart women and don't understand why she sometimes calls me stubborn.
Felice a Testaccio
If you go and check out the Testaccio Market make sure you try
Felice a Testaccio - in the same area as the Market. It has been there since 1936 and it's customers, the decor and menu are the same after three generations. This may well be the best trattoria in Rome. It is hidden in a nontourist area down a nondiscript street. Go for the tonnarelli cacio e pepes. Via Mastro Giorgio # 29 Tel. - 06.5746800 Closed on Sunday.
Ristorante Camponeschi
This was my 50th year and this trip was my wife's birthday present to me. We wanted one night out to be really special, obscenely special, if you know what I mean. I had read about
Ristorante Camponeschi in my research for our trip. It is located in the Piazza Farnese, one piazza over from the Campo de Fiori closer to the Tiber. The square houses the Palazzo Farnese, a stunning example of classic Renaissance Architecture built in 1541 which is now the French Embassy. The Piazza Farnese is elegant and charming as is Ristorante Camponeschi. The restaurant caters to the movers and shakers in the Italian capitol in several small rooms. It's like eating in some one's home, if they live in a centuries old home with massive flower arrangements, thick white table linens, heavy silver flatware, Villeroy & Boch china, thin crystal glassware and a legendary staff of chefs, cooks, waiters and sommeliers. The restaurant is known for its seafood, copious amounts of truffles, game dishes in season as well as an outstanding wine list, one of the best in the city.
Ristorante Camponeschi Dining Room
If you gasp at the thought of spending $200 - $300 per person for dinner this is not the place for you. If you are a whiner about getting value for your money, this is not the place for you. This is like "21" in New York or "Galatoire's" in New Orleans. It's about a love affair with an old school culinary ghost, not the the latest food trend with that hot new chef. Everything about the meal was fantastic, including the suave gentleman tucked in a nook with a guitar softly singing Italian love songs. I have been in restaurants where I have eaten better but never where I've had a more decadent romantic dining experience. It was worth every penny. The Camponeschi father and son team, Marino and Alessandro, have recently opened a wine shop and wine bar in adjacent buildings. The wine bar serves light fare and they are willing to open any of their 600 selections of wine, so that you can have a glass. Piazza Farnese # 50 - Tel. - 06.6874927 Closed on Sunday.
For this special night out, we dressed appropriately. I wore a jacket and tie with dark trousers and black wingtips. Sally also dressed in elegant dark hues. This "broke the code" for us with the pickpocket problem. We now blended in with the local Italians (until I opened my mouth to speak). No fashion conscious Italian is going to wear white athletic shoes or khakis out on the streets of the city, day or night. That attire screams "rich American with money for me" to every pickpocket in sight. I don't mean to pick on Rome. Every major city in the world has a pickpocket problem, New York in particular. When you travel you need to blend in and constantly be aware of your surroundings.
Be smart and don't become a target. After this we dressed in dark clothing and didn't put ourselves in unsafe situations. We didn't have any more problems with the pickpockets.
La Carbonara
After walking past
La Carbonara every morning, of course, we tried it for dinner. This is the place in Rome for pasta and please have the carbonara. They use
Guanciale (Roman bacon) instead of pancetta, it gives a more intense flavor. It comes from the jowl not the belly of the pig. The carbonara is delicous but it's not the reason the restaurant is named "La Carbonara". The name comes from the fact that the founder of the restaurant, Andreina Salomone's father had a coal shop in the neighborhood called "Il Carbonaro" (The Coal-seller) and when he closed the shop it was made into an inn of the same name that she ran. When she married she moved the inn to the Campo de Fiori and changed the name to fit the fact that she served food too. The majority of the crowd is local and it has been there for a hundred years (1912-2012) so they must do something right. They have an alfresco dining area in mild weather and if you eat inside ask for a table upstairs by the window for a fantastic view of the piazza. Piazza Campo de Fiori # 23 Tel- 06.6864783 They are open daily for lunch and dinner.
Carbonara
When we travel, we don't make reservations to eat. I know that sounds crazy but I've been in the business long enough to know that if you are flexible you won't go hungry. I typically have a list of 30 to 40 restaurants or food spots I want to try. In our cultural and historical wanderings we usually pass these places. I stop and take a look at the menu, eye some dishes if they are open and I take into account the smell and look of the place. Do they have a bar or counter? We will eat at the bar, no problem. Does it smell like bread baking or are there bags of bread by the door? They get their bread daily. Is there someone in the kitchen? Stocks, sauces, butchering, filleting and pastry take time, therefore someone should be there pretty much all day. The silver, the glassware, the linens, fresh flowers, smells and general cleanliness all tell a story. Do I want to eat here? I'm a gambler so I will admit that I will eat at a restaurant by reputation alone or if someone I respect has recommended it. And I will also admit to just taking a chance on some. You look at the outside of a run down hole in the wall and think "No way am I going to eat here" but something in your gut says "Try it! So you try it. I will admit that I have made errors in judgment in some of these latter cases but I have also been disappointed by some big guns too. The key is to find the little jewels and every city has them.
To go to a place without a reservation requires a bit of flexibility. We usually go early before the locals eat. In Rome this means 7:00 to 8:00 maybe 8:30. I go in and in my aforementioned bad Italian I say: "Buona sera. Un tavolo per due, per favore?" No matter what the response, 'Si or No" I always end with "Grazie". Looking at my sizable girth they know I'm not there for an salad and a glass of water, so this works 80% of the time. Next I try for a seat at the bar or I ask to wait. (with a nice glass or two of wine I have no problem waiting 30 or 40 minutes) If I am shut out we just go to another nearby restaurant on my list. I can count on one well-nourished hand the number of times I have been shut out.
Trattoria Armando al Pantheon
We were lucky at the extremely busy
Trattoria Armando al Pantheon. We don't usually eat at places this close to major tourist attractions but this is an exception to the rule. Started in 1961 by Armando Gargioli it is now run by his two sons, Claudio and Fabrizio. Although the restaurant is within a stone's throw of the Pantheon the majority of the patrons are Roman. Perhaps it's the unassuming entrance or the fact the menu is only in Italian (that's a good sign) that prevents tourist from giving it a try. That certainly didn't stop us. After scoping it out while we were visiting the Pantheon, we arrived at 7:15. After pleading monumental hunger and with a promise to be gone before the arrival of the 9:30 reservation we were given one of the 2 vacant tables. The menu is full of seasonal Roman classics. We had bruschetta, one with wild boar and another with goose breast and then roast lamb, beef carpaccio and their famous rum torte.(Don't be afraid of all the meat. They also have a completely vegetarian menu) We share everything by dinging (The side of your glass with a spoon, like at a wedding when you want the bride and groom to kiss, well not that loud but you get the idea) and passing the plate. Dining is much more fun that way, you get to try everything. Salita Dei Crescenzi # 31 Tel.- 06.68803034 Closed Saturday for dinner and all day Sunday.
L'Eau Vive Now With Signs & Menu
In searching for the Pantheon, we walked down a narrow side street past a restaurant with a brass plaque over the modest entrance that told us this was
L'Eau Vive (Living Water). There was nothing else outside that indicated this was a restaurant, no signs, no menu, nothing other that the stately dorway to the right that is the main entrance to 16th century Palazzo Lante della Rovere. (This has changed as they now have their menu posted and added some plant boxes) Once inside we found a French restaurant run by a cloister of French nuns in the middle of one of the oldest sections of Rome. Nuns, you say? Yes, nuns.
Cooking at L'Eau Vive
Well, not technically nuns. We found out later that the restaurant has been there since 1965, at one time had a star in the Michelin guide and is run by Travailleuses Missionnaires de la Conception Immaculee (Missionary Women Workers of the Immaculate Conception) a secular association that does charity work in Third World countries. The ladies who comprise the staff of the restaurant come from all over the world but take no formal vows unlike novices in religious orders. They do commit to observe the rules of their community and they live together in convent-like residences so as far as I am concerned they are nuns. The ladies dress in their native costumes. The food is classic French with a nod to international influences. They have an excellent wine selection, predominately French with some Italian.
We were seated in one of the two rooms on the ground floor and we thought this was a small quaint restaurant. At the end of the meal I went in search of the men's room and was directed upstairs. I discovered two additional dining rooms with towering frescoed ceilings and the huge kitchen. We were indeed inside a palazzo and this was no small quaint restaurant. It is the flagship of their mission and they have operations in France, Belgium, the Philippines, Argentina, Peru, New Caledonia and Upper Volta. In these countries the young ladies also teach in schools, visit the sick and tend to the old and the poor while spreading the word of Jesus. The profits from the restaurant operations pay for their charity work.
The "Little Theatrical"
Their customers are largely Roman families and local and visiting clergy. There is a large statue of the Virgin Mary at the entrance and mid way through your meal there will be a "little theatrical" performed by the nuns. This consists of singing hymns, usually "Ava Maria" and the reciting of bible stories in a ballet-like art form. We were there for the 2000th birthday of Jesus so ours included the passing of a doll-like baby Jesus for everyone to kiss. These ladies always have a smile on their faces and are some of the most gracious people I have ever met. Eating here I feel like Jean Valjean at the bishop's table eating good French food and drinking good French wine, all with a sprinkling of God's word. No, I didn't take the candlesticks or the silver flatware. Via Monterone # 85 Tel.- 06.68801095 Closed, of course, on Sunday.
These are the restaurants and places we always return to. When in Rome you are surrounded by history. We have a history with these places and have fond memories of the food, drink and moments we have shared here.
Here is a list of some other good places that we hope will some day be added to your fond memories of Rome.
Primo al Pigneto is hip and comfortable with warehouse chic decor. The food is creative, respectful and delicious. Excellent wine list. $40-$50 per person. Via del Pigneto
Trattoria Monti ia a contemporary spot with mom in the kitchen and two sons running the front. It has a definate Le Marche feel in the food and wine list because that is where they are from so lots of meat game and fish. Lots of options for vegetarians as well. Try the Tortello al Rosa d'Uovo. No website. $50-$60 per person. Via San Vito # 13a Tel. - 06.4466573. Close Sunday evening and all day Monday.
Il Paliaccio is creative French Italian Far East fusion cuisine in a seasonal changing menu. It has a decently priced wine list that has interesting small producers mixed in with the big names everyone knows. Seared scallops with teriyaki-marinated beef, foie gras with a citrus granite and spectacular desserts. $90-$100 per person. Via dei Banchi Vecchi # 129a Tel. - 06.68809595 Closed Sunday and for lunch Monday and Tuesday.
Trattoria Der Pallaro is traditional roman cuisine with a fixed-price menu. There is no choice, you eat what they fix but everything is included in the price including wine and bottled water. According to the owner the restaurant sits on the site of the assassination of Julius Caesar. That might be a stretch but food is good and only $30 per person. Largo del Pallaro # 15 Tel. - 06.68801488 Closed Mondays.
Hostaria Antica Roma is classic dining in an archaeological site on the Appian Way. Lunch or dinner in an ancient tavern that has been used as such since the mid 1700's. This is a unique dining experience that will definitely let you know you are in Rome. Traditional menu with some contemporary influences and excellent wine list. They even have a menu of dishes from recipes by Apicius who is credited with writing the first cookbook. $60-$80 per person. Via Appia Antica # 87 Tel. - 06.5132888 Closed Monday
Casa Beleve is an enoteca in a palazzo. This is Roman grandeur. You can drive a Lamborghini between the tables. Great food, more than just antipasti and an unbelievable selection of wine. Worth the price as a fantastic wine and food experience. $60-$70 per person. Via del Teatro Valle # 48-49 Tel. - 06.6864045 Closed Saturday evening, Sunday and Monday.
La Rosetta is dedicated to fish, no red meat on this menu. This is one of Rome's best seafood restaurants. Sophisticated pristine fish preparations with an excellent choice of wines to match. Bring your wallet. $100-$150 per person. Via della Rosetta # 8-9 Tel. - 06.6861002 Open every day except lunch on Sunday.
Il Convivio Troiani is regarded by Romans as one of the best restaurants in the city. Opened in 1990 by three brothers it has elegant rooms and beautiful tableware. The food is an exciting mix of old and new. Great wine list with all the big guns. They have tasting portions of most items on the menu. $100-$150 per person. Vicolo dei Soldati # 31 Tel. - 06.6869432 Dinner only Closed Sunday.
