Crème Anglaise, Sabayon, or Zabaglione?

When I worked at Empire Distributors in Atlanta, I worked with Mr. Tony Ridings. At the time, he was their top salesperson and spoke fluent Italian. His dad was in the Air Force and was stationed in Italy for a while. His mom taught Tony how to make a Italian dessert using a fork. He showed me how he did it. It involved egg yolks, sugar and Marsala wine. He called it Zabaglione. It reminded me a lot of the Sabayon I used to make at the Greenhouse in Captiva. There was a good reason for that. It's the same sauce. Zabaglione is the Italian name and Sabayon is the French. 

Zabaglione originated in northern Italy. It was first mentioned in the 1500's, so it's been around for a long time. The classic recipe calls for whipping egg yolks with sugar and Marsala wine in a bain-marie (water bath). This method ensures a creamy consistency while incorporating air to make it light. 

France, being just across the border, adopted the dessert and called it Sabayon. The core preparation stayed the same but they used different wines or liquors instead of Marsala. 

Sabayon is meant to be served warm, as soon as you are finished making it. I've seen it prepared tableside in some restaurants and served on top of whatever fresh berries are in season. I've also seen it prepared, placed on top of fresh berries and then browned with a torch or under a salamander. 

Some restaurants serve it chilled and add whipped cream to help stabilize the sauce so that it will last for a full dinner service. This accounts for the lighter color. I think this diminishes the intensity of the flavors. 

In most professional kitchens, Sabayon is made in a copper bowl. The copper has a chemical reaction with the egg yolks to make a more stable structure. It also provides even heat and can quickly cool down. It has a rough surface which provides friction which makes the yolks whip up quicker and with more volume, which gives it a smoother airy texture. The drawbacks are copper bowls are expensive and require constant polishing to prevent tarnishing. Stainless steel and glass both work, require less maintenance and are less expensive. 

For years, Zabaglione was on almost every Italian restaurant's dessert list. Now, the dessert mainstay is Tiramisu. Times change. Dishes go in and out of fashion. Some restaurants actually use Zabaglione in their recipe for Tiramisu. 

 

The French also make a savory Sabayon to use as a sauce for fish, seafood, vegetables, or eggs. The preparation is similar but instead of sugar and sweet wine, the base is flavored with reduced fish stock, white wine, champagne, or vermouth. They will sometimes include a bit of lemon juice, herbs, or mustard. Sometimes this savory Sabayon is used as a sauce or glaze for chicken, pork, or veal. 

I have used it as a sweet sauce for berries and as a savory sauce with salmon surrounded by spinach. It is versatile, easy and quick to prepare. The only problem is it's fragile nature and short life span. As an a la minute sauce it is hard to beat. It has a simple pure flavor.  

It's this simple pure flavor that makes it such a favorite among my friends and a favorite of the customers in my restaurants back when I was in the business. I have one friend, who shall remain nameless, who liked it so much that I caught her in the kitchen after dinner at my house one night with her head in the copper bowl licking the last bit of Sabayon. Rest assured, I have never let her forget this. We all have our foibles. 

I typically use Kahlúa or Tia Maria as my flavor element. On occasion, I have used Grand Marnier and orange zest.  

There is another sauce that looks similar to Sabayon / Zabaglione called Crème Anglaise. It is so similar, just by looks, you would swear it was Sabayon. It too is used with fresh berries. It starts out with egg yolks and sugar being whipped and warmed. 

There is no wine or liquor component. It is always flavored with vanilla, either extract, seeds, or paste. It is always served cold, in fact it doesn't reach its peak thickness until it is cold. It has a milk / cream component that pure Sabayon doesn't. Therefore, its taste is much different. It is always strained, which makes it lighter and smoother. 

It is basically a thin custard and in fact you can put it in an ice cream maker and you will have vanilla ice cream, a very rich one. It can be used as an ice cream base by adding flavors from chocolate to banana to peach to whatever you want. It too is very versatile.

Crème Anglaise translates to English Cream. The technique for making custards dates back to the Middle Ages in England. France being just across the English Channel adopted the dish, but to be fair, did give it the name Crème Anglaise. Over the centuries French chefs refined the recipe into a more delicate preparation. It became a cornerstone of French patisserie, serving as a base for numerous desserts. 

In my restaurants, I used it extensively as a dessert sauce, especially with chocolate. It was the base sauce for a flourless chocolate cake and a bittersweet chocolate terrine. Sometimes because raspberry couli goes so well with chocolate, I would do a Yin and Yang on the plate with both sauces and then place the chocolate on top. It and the raspberry couli would keep for a couple of days so I could make a larger amount. 

Crème Anglaise has a universal appeal. I haven't met too many people who don't love it. This past Christmas Eve, Sally and I hosted dinner for the family. There are eleven of us, six adults and five grandbabies. For dessert I did a mix and match affair. We had rum cake, sliced strawberries, chocolate chip ice cream, chocolate sauce, whipped cream and Crème Anglaise. All the adults had a mix of everything. The grandchildren, of course, each had a different combination. After tasting the Crème Anglaise, everyone of them had a combination with the Crème Anglaise as a component. I made all of them taste it. It's a rule in our house that you don't have to eat it, but you do have to at least taste it. That's how you can tell if it's Crème Anglaise, Sabayon, or Zabaglione.

  Crème Anglaise

        12 - Grade A Large Egg Yolks            2 - Cups Granulated Sugar 

         1 - Qt. Whole Milk                              1 - Pinch Kosher Salt

         1 - Pint Heavy Cream                        2 - Tbsp. Vanilla Extract

In a bowl whip egg yolks and sugar until ribbons form. In a stainless steel-lined sauce pot heat milk and cream until it is almost to a boil. Temper yolk mixture by adding two ladles of hot milk/cream mixture, stirring all the while, being careful not to curdle the egg yolks. Pour warmed egg yolk mixture into the pot of hot milk/cream. Add vanilla extract. Lower heat and continue stirring until slightly thickened. You can do this over direct heat but you have to be careful not to cook too much or too fast or you will curdle the egg yolks. 

Remove from heat and whip custard over an ice bath until cool.  Place in a stainless steel container and top with a piece of plastic wrap on the surface to prevent a skin from forming.  Place container in the refrigerator and chill thoroughly.

Makes a great sauce or if you want ice cream, once thoroughly chilled, place in ice cream freezer and freeze following manufacturer’s directions.

     Sabayon / Zabaglione

            6 - Grade A Large Egg Yolks          ½ - Cup Granulated Sugar
            ⅔ - Cup Dry Marsala*

Fill a pan with 1/2 inch water and put it over medium heat. In a copper bowl whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale and thick -- this will take about 3 minutes of vigorous whisking.

When it reaches this stage, whisk the Marsala into the eggs and set the bowl over the simmering water. Continue whisking, scraping the entire base of the pan as you go. The zabaglione will become fluffy and foamy and will begin to gain in volume. Remove from the heat and continue whisking so it doesn't overcook. Return to the heat if you need to. It is done when it clings to a spoon like a loose pudding. Spoon into 4 small glass dishes or low stemmed glasses. Serve warm or chilled, with a dish of biscotti for a real Italian twist. Its flavors are best when served warm.

*This is the classic recipe for Sabayon / Zabaglione. You can substitute Grand Mariner, Kahlua, Tia Maria, or any other sweet wine or liquor you like.

This is a stand alone dessert or a great sauce for chocolate pastry or fresh fruit or berries. I occasionally add Lemon or Orange zest as a finishing note.

Been There, Tasted That!

Having been in the food and wine business for a number of years (So many I no longer count them because I don't need to get depressed), I constantly get asked, when you go out to eat, where do you go? 

When I was younger, I went all over this country eating at great and innovative restaurants. I also hit a lot of local favorites. You don't have to be cutting edge to be great. It was an educational thing for me. I didn't go to culinary school, so I used other chefs and restaurants as my vocational instruction. I was exposed to the latest trends, techniques and products. I was also exposed to some traditional regional cuisine. I am lucky in that I can look at a dish, taste it and then can pretty much replicate that dish. I didn't always hit it 100% but I got close and being a cook, I would tweek a thing or two to make it mine. 

Of course, I always recommended these restaurants and food spots to my friends and customers who were looking for a good spot in a particular area. I have been to restaurants all over this country from Jeremiah Tower's Stars in San Francisco to Il Vagabondo with its inside bocce court in New York City and from Louie's Backyard in Key West to the roaring fireplace at The Shed in Stowe, Vermont. I love food and I love cooking so I was more than happy to share where I've been and what I had eaten when I was there. Sadly, some of these places no longer exist.

I have retired from the food and wine business. I don't go out as much nor travel as much but I still get people asking where I eat when I do go out, either locally or in another city in this country or abroad. I kept getting asked about certain cities so much, I started making what I called Food Lists. With the invention of the internet, it's easy to research cities. With websites like Yelp and Tripadvisor, you get real pictures of the food not food magazine styled pictures of the food. These pictures give you a feel for the food and atmosphere of these restaurants without all the gloss you get from food and travel magazines' pictures. 

In these Food Lists, I include some of the notable restaurants and food places. I highlight the places I've been in a certain color background and list the things the place is noted for. With another color background, I highlight the places that look really interesting that I would like to visit. I keep these lists on my computer and when someone asks about a certain city or area I send them the list. That is, after I have updated it to be sure no one has closed or gone out of business. The food and wine business is tricky and things happen. I have about 25 of these lists.

Of course the majority of the people ask me about restaurants in my local area. I live in the Tampa Bay region, across the Skyway Bridge in Bradenton, Florida. At one time I was selling wine in Tampa Bay, so I have a list of all the top restaurants and wine shops. With Microsoft Excel's filtering tools, I am able to make lists of the top restaurants in all the different geographical areas to suit just about anyone. These too have to be brought up-to-date to keep them current. Places open and close for a variety of reasons. There is always a new guy on the block to take the place of one that closes. It seems everyone wants to own and run a restaurant. i don't think they realize how difficult it is in this day and age.

For the last few years, I have been on a fixed income, so I don't go out as much as I used to. It's not just the money. I know it sounds narcissistic, but I can prepare anything on the menu of any restaurant just as good as they do. The only exceptions are when a specific piece of equipment is needed like a wok range to get the necessary heat for a correct stir fry, or if something requires multiple hard to get ingredients like several different kinds of fresh raw fish for sushi or sashimi. 

I had the same problem with pizza until I acquired the Lodge Cast Iron Pizza Pan and the recipe for the 00 flour pizza dough from Roberta's Pizza in Brooklyn, New York. I now craft a pizza that would make a Neapolitan or New Yorker proud. 

The fact of the matter is, I would rather take the money I would spend at a nice restaurant and buy a prime cut of beef, a rack of lamb, or some jumbo lump crabmeat (All expensive items) and cook at home. I know not supporting local independent restaurants is odd for someone who was in the restaurant business for as long as I was, but I'm old and have paid my dues. 

I sometimes take the extra money and invest in a really nice bottle of wine (Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Mayacamas Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chateau Haut Brion are favorites) or an expensive bottle of liquor (Calvados Boulard VSOP, The Macallan 12 Year Old, and Remy Martin VSOP Cognac are favorites). All of which with restaurant pricing would be cost prohibitive. 

My problem is that early in my food and wine career, friends, customers (who became friends), or particular jobs exposed me to high quality food and drink. I was lucky. I got to experience some of the best in the world. Once you get that exposure, you can't pretend to not be able to tell the difference between the good stuff and the really good stuff. At least, I can't. 

In my golden years, I realize I don't need to drive a BMW or a Mercedes Benz. I get by with a nice year old Hyundai Tucson. I don't need to live by the water on Captiva or Tierra Verde (flood and hurricane insurance is crazy). I can live inland a bit where it's dry and more protected. I don't have to live in a million dollar house. One that sells for much less than that but built like Sally and I wanted is perfect. Besides my home is wherever Sally is. The building itself is not as important as being home. 

I have learned that money and what it buys is not going to make me happy. Sally makes me happy. I still prepare meals with my Wusthof and Global knives and my All-Clad and Bourgeat pots and pans. I have them so why not use them? I have been to a lot of restaurants, food shops, wine shops and wineries, so I have experienced and tasted a lot of what they offer. So when people ask about places and dishes, if I've been there I tell them, I've been there and tasted that. I also tell them I was very lucky for the chance to do that.   

Roberta's Pizza Dough

    1 – Cup + 1 Tbsp 00* Flour          1 – Cup + 2 Tbsp AP Flour

    1 – Tsp Fine Sea Salt                  ¾ - Tsp Active Dry Yeast

    1 – Tsp Extra-Virgin Olive Oil      1 – Cup Warm Water

In a large mixing bowl, combine flours and salt.

In a small mixing bowl, stir together 1 cup lukewarm tap water, the yeast and the olive oil, (I sometimes add a bit of sugar to aid the yeast action) then pour it into flour mixture. Knead with your hands until well combined, approximately 3 minutes, then let the mixture rest for 15 minutes.

Knead rested dough for 3 minutes. Cut into 2 equal pieces and shape each into a ball. Place on a heavily floured surface, cover with dampened cloth, and let rest and rise for 3 to 4 hours at room temperature or for 8 to 24 hours in the refrigerator. (If you refrigerate the dough, remove it 30 to 45 minutes before you begin to shape it for pizza.)

*00 Flour can be found in a specialty grocery or online.

     

 

A Great Cheese From Buzzard Bay?

Cheese is a part of the diet of most people. We are exposed to it at an early age. Think about your first grilled cheese sandwich, or your first bowl of mac and cheese. A lot of time these first exposures were to "Processed Cheese Products", not real cheese. I'm talking about good old Velveeta and Kraft Singles. I'm always suspicious of cheese that doesn't need refrigeration. Of course, nothing melts quite as well on a hamburger as a good old slice of American cheese, nor taste quite the same. You have to love those old sensory memories. 

Being a normal child in the United States, I progressed through to the usual cheese selections, starting with domestic versions of cheeses that had gained their fame in other countries, like cheddar, Swiss, parmesan, and provolone. I then moved into the consumption of the real cheese from its country of origin.  

When I started my culinary career, I got a chance to taste hard to find varieties. For the most part, I enjoyed all these cheeses. There were some of the smellier ones I never grew an appreciation for but I tried them. The smell of Limburger, Vieux Boulogne and similar cheeses just turn me off to any pleasure I might enjoy in eating them. I know I'm not alone in this feeling. There are close to 2000 different cheeses in the world, so I have never run out of new possibilities. The fromageries and food markets in France have given me the opportunity to taste a lot of different cheeses because they are always willing to give you a sample. 

When I opened my own restaurants, I started out using the best cheeses I could find, like Parmigiano Reggiano from Italy, and Roquefort and Chèvre from France. I grew to have an appreciation for the flavor and texture of these cheeses. My customers did as well. 

As my cooking knowledge expanded, I moved into an American mindset. I started cooking dishes more intune with American Regional cuisine. I started thinking about using only American products. When I opened the Greenhouse in Captiva, I went with a totally American wine list, which was unconventional at the time (Early 1980's). I also started using only American ingredients in my menu items. This included using only American cheeses.

On one of my trips to California, I visited the Vella Cheese Company in the town of Sonoma. I had read about it in a couple of food magazines. It was on a quiet street a few blocks from Sonoma Plaza. I met a man by the name of Ignazio Vella. He was a pleasant man and extremely passionate about his cheeses. 

Monterey Jack is a semi-hard cheese made from cow's milk. Cheesemaking in California started with the Spanish missionaries in the 1700's. In the mid-1800's a Monterey businessman named David Jack started selling a cheese made from cow's milk that he called Monterey Jack. Most people don't credit him with inventing this cheese but he made several advancements in the production and marketing. Naming it Monterey Jack certainly helped get the word out. Other producers copied him and a new American cheese was born.

Gaetano (Tom) Vella, Ignazio's father started the Vella Cheese Company in 1931. Now there are 3rd and 4th generations involved in the company. They produce several types of Monterey Jack including Traditional Monterey Jack, Pepper Jack, and Dry Jack.

Dry Jack came about by accident in 1915, when D. F. DeBernardi, a San Francisco cheese wholesaler re-discovered a forgotten batch of fresh Monterey Jack. It had aged into a rich, nutty cheese that could replace the imported hard cheeses that weren't available during World War I.  

During World War II, when imported hard cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano again became hard to get, Gaetano Vella adapted by aging wheels of Jack cheese 7-10 months or longer and coating them with a mixture of cocoa powder, oil, and black pepper. 

This Dry Vella Jack was similar in taste and texture to Parmigiano Reggiano. I tasted it and really like it. I started using it in my Caesar Salad and for pasta dishes on my menus. 

Another imported cheese I used was fresh Chèvre (goat cheese) from France. I used it as warm breadcrumb coated discs in a salad and in an appetizer with a whole roasted head of garlic. In California at Alice Waters' Chez Panisse, I saw that she was using a fresh goat cheese from Laura Chenel out of Sonoma. I tried it and became a fan, so I started using it too. 

Laura Chenel established her goat cheese business in 1979, becoming the first commercial producer of goat cheese in the United States. She started with a small herd of goats, trying to replicate the creamy, tangy chèvres she had tasted in France. She succeeded a thousand times over by creating a benchmark for other aspiring artisan cheese-makers in the United States. She introduced the American dining public to the goat cheese salad and things haven't been the same since.

I also used Camembert cheese on my menus as an appetizer, dipped in beer batter, deep fried and served with fresh fruit. Camembert is made with cow's milk in the Normandy region of France. True AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) Camembert is not available in the United States because it uses raw milk. The French producers make a pasteurized version for export to countries who won't allow the raw milk version. 

The AOC version has a more complex, earthy, and rich taste due to the raw milk and the traditional methods required by the government regulations. I've tasted both and actually prefer the pasteurized version. The pasteurized versions also have a longer shelf life. A lot of the french producers mention serving it baked with fruit and toasted baguette slices. They would probably be upset to hear I dipped it in beer batter and fried it. 

There are several companies that produce pasteurized Camembert in the United States like Président and La Bonne Vie. I started using the French brand Ile de France and easily moved over to the U. S. produced version. I couldn't taste any difference in the French and domestic pasteurized versions. 

The cheese I had the biggest problem with was Roquefort. During the Age of Enlightenment, French philosopher Denis Diderot called Roquefort the "King Of Cheeses". That label has stuck. I used it to top salads and steaks. There are lots of blue cheeses in the world markets but none quite like Roquefort. 

AOC Roquefort is made exclusively with the raw milk of Lacaune sheep. There are only seven producers. To get AOC status, these sheep must be raised in a certain area, the milk must be treated in the traditional manner, and the cheeses must be aged in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon in southern France. 

Roquefort has a creamy yet crumbly texture and a tangy, sharp, and savory flavor with a hint of earthiness due to the blue-green mold of Penicillium Roqueforti fungus that is used to inoculate the cheese. Some people find the smell too strong but I think it is perfect. I have been a fan for a long time.

Most of the seven producers have a bakery adjacent to the cheese making area to produce a special type of rye bread that after aging develops the spores of the fungus. The loaves are aged in the same caves as the cheese. Once fully moldy the bread is dried and then ground into a fine powder. This powder is added during the cheesemaking process. With the EU involved these days, I wouldn't be surprised to find they are currently using a more scientific method to inoculate the fungus, but this is their story currently.

The cheese is formed into cylindrical wheels with flat bottoms and tops. They weigh about 5.5 to 6.5 pounds and are about 8 inches across and 4 inches tall. They are salted and pierced with needles all the way through the wheel. The needling allows oxygen inside the wheel to produce the blue veins of mold. 

They are then aged in the Combalou caves for over 60 days. This long ageing process is what allows the raw milk AOC Roquefort to be imported into the United States whereas the short time ageing of the AOC Camembert prohibits it. 

There are several blue cheeses produced in the United States but none tasted quite as good as Roquefort until I came across Maytag Blue. It was being used in several restaurants in California, so I had a chance to sample it. 

With a name like Maytag you would think they should be making washing machines and that's exactly where the family money came from. Frederick Louis Maytag I founded the company that would eventually become the Maytag Corporation in the 1890's in Newton, Iowa. His son Frederick Louis (Fritz) Maytag II branched out and formed the Maytag Dairy Farms in 1941 just outside of Newton. 

He and other family members had tasted Roquefort cheese in France and wanted to make an American version. He worked with Iowa State University researchers to develop a process to make blue cheese using homogenized cow's milk instead of sheep's milk. They did use the Penicillium Roqueforti but in a more scientific manner than rye bread. They were scientist afterall. 

Even in France the majority of blue cheeses are made with cow's milk. In the rest of Europe most of the blue cheeses are made with cow's milk too, like Stilton from England and Gorgonzola from Italy. Sheep's milk is more expensive and less abundant because they produce less milk than cows. It is also more labor intensive and requires specific conditions like those in the Roquefort region. 

Maytag also aged their cheese for 2 - 4 months in hand-dug limestone caves with cool temperatures and high humidity like in Roquefort. Maytag has always been a small batch production with everything done by hand. For the most part all the advertising is done by word of mouth especially among chefs.

I started using it at the Greenhouse in Captiva and never had anything but compliments. It is a great cheese and an beautiful American substitute for Roquefort. 

When I married Sally and moved to Atlanta, I found a new use for Maytag Blue, melted on freshly fried potato chips. This was a dish I first experienced at the Buckhead Diner. They topped theirs with a cream sauce with melted Maytag Blue cheese in it and then added crumbles melted on top. I used just the crumbles melted on top. It's more expensive that way because you end up using more cheese but I think it taste better. When I opened the Crazy Conch Cafe, it was a customer favorite. So much so they wouldn't let me take it off the menu. 

Over the course of the next few years, I kept hearing chef chatter about a new American Blue Cheese from Buzzard Bay, MA. It was named Great Hill Blue. I called them on the phone and had an interesting conversation. They sent me a sample and I was sold. This cheese was different and more to my liking than Maytag Blue, so I started using it. It always comes down to the taste.

Tim Stone began making cheese in 1997 as a way to sustain the family-owned Great Hill Dairy. The property has been in the Stone  family since 1909. He inherited the property and quickly realized that traditional dairy farming alone was not financially viable. He decided on blue cheese because it was a unique niche in the market especially in the eastern United States. Few dairies at that time were making an artisan blue cheese. He liked the flavor profile, aging potential and popularity among chefs and cheese aficionados. 

There are several high quality milk producers around him, Guernsey cow milk producers. These farms are environmentally conscious and where animal welfare is a priority. Great Hill Farm no longer raises cows and Tim converted the old barn and facilities for cheese production. He uses non-homogenized, raw milk which gives his cheese a creamy, rich, and complex flavor. He follows the traditional steps of other blue cheese producers. Everything is small scale and hands on which ensures high quality and consistency. Tim is involved in every part of the production and that is important to him. He has about 10 employees, which is good for the area. 

None of my suppliers had heard of Great Hill Dairy Blue Cheese so Mr. Stone ship the cheese to me directly, overnight express. Doing this economically as possible meant I had to buy 6 wheels at a time, 6 pounds each with all the necessary dry ice and packaging. That was expensive but I felt it was worth it. This was special. 

Great Hill Blue is aged for at least 120 days and made without excess salt. All the elements of the production of this cheese make it a blue cheese people who don't like blue cheese like, especially when it is melted on top of freshly fried potato chips. 

Every week 600 six-pound wheels of blue cheese are made and packaged at Great Hill Farm sitting on the shore of Buzzard Bay. If you can't find it locally, you can order it from Great Hill Dairy directly, by phone or online. 

To answer my own question, yes, a great cheese can come from Buzzard Bay, a fantastically great blue cheese. It also comes from equally fantastic people. As is usually the case, it takes a great man to make a great cheese.

Great Hill Dairy Farm

160 Delano Road

Marion, MA 02738

508-748-2208

Order Line: 888-748-2282

www.greathillblue.com